1. Panel lamps replacement. 2. Fuse Panel - Peugeot Boxer 3.Rust Prevention  on front cross beam
4. Images of a rust damaged cross member 5. How to replace a rust damaged cross member- by Jim Graham

1. Above the cab heater and air distribution control panel.  Remove two screws in the Emergency blinker switch/clock panel, using a 10 mm Allen key.

2. Take out this panel and place one side with cables attached.

3. At each adjustable rotary switch on the heater control panel, remove the knob. [ Pull out using a pliers, protect from scratches by covering the plier jaws with a cloth. ]

4. Remove the "Inside/Outside" air circulating lever knob, by pulling off with a pliers,  don't squeeze to hard as this knob contains a fibre optic indicator, the light is taken from the lamps. 

5. Lower the panel for convenient working,  At the bottom of the controls,  on the exposed interior,  there are small holes filled with sponges,  Remove the small sponges and take out the screws now seen.

6. At this point the panel will fall apart from the interior panel and expose the panel lamps which are at the top.

7. Remove the faulty panel lamps and replace.

 [ Removal can be made easier by using an outside cover of a suitably sized cable, this tube can then be used as a tool to push over the lamps, if this is a good fit the lamps can be pulled out easily.]

8. Replace the lamps, note the way they come out.  Turn on lights from the ignition switch and check lamps are OK.

9. Put every thing back in the reverse order.

Does your dash need a 'Makeover' re-furbishment then have a look at this site:

http://www.dashkitz.com/products.asp?cat=3787

http://www.dashkitz.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Peugeot20021&cat=3787

     Any work on the electrics will require the battery negative to be removed. Also a necessity is the fuse box and knowing it's location. This is found in the 'Glove' Compartment  under the push to open panel. It is secured with two screws only.

     Conveniently the fuse cover shows all the fuse functions, by using diagram illustrations.

       When we purchased our Wanderer it was obvious the battery had overflowed and the red rust on the engine interior was the outcome.  As we had a good deal on the Wanderer I did not push the problem with the view I would have to do the job myself. Also the dealer was 160 miles away, another reason for others to choose and purchase from a dealer closer to home.

        Having repaired the engine interior area, I had a look underneath the engine and saw the Cross Beam, which is pressed in two parts and welded together, it had all it's paint stripped and was flaking with rust.  I could see that the battery overflow had stripped the paint work.

Rusted Beams. Viewed Underneath.
[Click For larger image.]

        A letter in a Motorhome Magazine had made the point about this beam rusting,  the vehicle mentioned had failed the MOT.

        The complete beam cannot be seen due to the lower bumper enclosing most of it.   To get at the beam, to enable work to be done, meant taking off the bumper and all parts around the front of the Peugeot Boxer.

        Having done this, I was fortunate,  I could see the rust damage was superficial.  A wire brush and paint work repair was all that was needed.  I had got it in time.

       The beam was painted with "Jenolite," left over night,  and then painted with "Hammerite." The interior of the Beam was then injected with "Waxoyl" to cover any rust which would have spread inside the beam and also the welded joints.

       The photos below show the bumper in different stages of removal and re-installing.

HOW TO REMOVE THE BUMPER:
The inside plastic wheel arch covers must be removed first.  There are about six self tapping screws and three "Fir Tree" type plastic securing pins holding it on.

When the Wheel Arch cover is removed, a bumper securing tube can be seen bolted to the bulk head. This must be removed.  It will probably need attention.  In my case the securing bolts had rusted and had to be replaced.

Remove the exterior panel below the engine bonnet, which is secured with four self tapping screws. When removing this panel, it  must be eased off slowly from either end, as it is secured with push pins at the extremes.  When pulling off, if the thin base panel securing the removed panel, is pulled as well, the panel will protrude from the front when reassembling.  Just push it in to it's original position!

Remove the three screw nuts which secure the top of the bumper.  These can be seen when the panel in the last instruction has been removed.  Click on the pictures below to see these fixing points.

Remove the two blank covers at the base of the bumper and remove the bolts underneath with a 15mm socket spanner. On the same level as the tow bracket.

The bumper can now be taken off the front of the engine by pulling away from the radiator.  Note the plastic slide in runner,  securing device,  located inside the wheel arches.

Reinstalling is reverse of the above procedure.  Ensure all the screw and bolts are given a coating of grease. you might want to take it off again in a couple of years.

Photos in different stages of removal:
[Click for larger image]

JENOLITE

       Obtained from Halfords in the UK,  Jenolite is a good rust preventer it converts Iron Oxide (rust) into Iron Phosphate which prevents further rust forming.

       Rub down the effected area, treat with Jenolite or similar, clean, prime, and paint. Rub down the primer with P1200 wet or dry paper prior to painting with the top coat to maintain a gloss finish.

Here is a description by - Jim Graham -

of a Cross Member replacement

Hi Brian,

Just letting you know how I got on with the fitting of the replacement Lower Crossmember.

Removing trim and bumper went well as none of the fixings were corroded. 

Before removing the Crossmember I supported the radiator and the component to the left(?) with three web straps suspended from the crossmember above.

There is a large plastic cover low down on the battery side which is attached to the Crossmember with an M10 x 25 hex head bolt. Remove bolt and push aside.     

The Crossmember was supported with a wooden block and wedges and the three 18mm A/F hexagon bolts both sides slackened off. I had attempted to loosen these bolts with release oil but none of it had gotten through to the threads. There was a fair bit of resistance on the bolts on removal, I think this was due to Loctite on the threads. The necks of the bolts on the side below the battery were very corroded.

 [ See above my repair- Brian]

Before this stage I should have released the cable clips (4) attached to the bottom of the Crossmember. These clips push into holes in the Crossmember which I managed to break when I attempted to remove them.

Retain the four rubber isolator mounts from below the radiator. 

With the rotten Crossmember removed I treated all the the rust below the battery with Jenolite and later a coat of Hammerite paint. I also removed the battery and gave the tray the same treatment.

All this was done in lovely Sunday afternoon sunshine but refitting it all was done on a very wet Monday - not so pleasant.

Prior to fitting the new Crossmember I gave the outside a coat of Hammerite paint and squirted Waxoyl inside.

I applied Loctite to the six attachment bolts before fitting.

 Fitting the Crossmember is really a two man job as the four rubber isolators under the radiator have to be aligned. I extended the socket wrench with a short length of pipe to apply a bit extra torque to the six bolts.

My replacement Crossmember wasn't a genuine Peugeot part consequently the M10 bolt which supports the plastic cover wouldn't fit because the tappings were a 'Course fit' and not the 'Medium fit' of the original.

Everything went back on as easily as it came off.

My Crossmember cost £80 and the Peugeot part is £130. I was given a quote of £205 + vat to supply and fit a new Crossmember by my local Peugeot dealer, I wonder what they would have done with the rusty area around the battery tray?  I always feel I've lost control when I put a vehicle into a garage.

Hope this helps somebody.

Best regards Jim

30th April 2009