The MoT
Before reaching the MoT station, take the vehicle for good run up the
Motorway to warm it up, about half an hour. Run the engine in second
gear for awhile to blast out and clear most of the diesel debris,
which will cause emission problems from the exhaust silencer
boxes. Most of us nurse our vehicles but these vans were built
for the young driver who drive at maximum speed on motorways.
The smoke test involves taking the engine to maximum revs a number of
times. If in poor condition this could break the cam belt. This
type of test is not now used in 2009, as a computer analysis is used instead.
It is not generally known but the vehicle is tested to the standards
when the vehicle came out of the factory, not what is expected of
todays standard. This point is important as a lot of younger
Technicians are not aware of this, and a lot of Motorhomes are of the
older variety.
As the test is basically visual you can do a lot for yourself to
ensure the vehicle passes the test.
One of the first checks one can do, before the test, would be to walk
around the vehicle. Check for sharp edges. Now is the time to repair
that cracked plastic around the mudguards. Any of these could
fail it. My test showed up a reapeater lamp on the side panel was
defective. The tester allowed me to change it while he checked other items!
Have a look at the above, first part of this page, 'Free test covers'
and make them your checks.
Ensure the seat belt webbing looks good and it retracts into it's
holder easily. Does it buckle in correctly and holds?
When out in the rain last, were the wipers smearing? Another failure.
Turn on the lights, headlights, main and dipped. How often have you
seen vehicles with only one headlamp. Don't be one of them.
Check the rear lights cluster. Get someone to press the brake pedal.
One of mine was not working. The Technician allowed me to take off
the lamp cover and clean the white film from around the lamp base
which stopped it making proper contact.
Check the rear license number plate lamp. This is often missed.
Check the rear fog off side lamp. If you have two it's just the off
side that's required.
Check the indicators are they all working. Front and rear.
If you have repeater lamps on the side of the body make sure these
are working.
Check the tyres all around, any tyres that have been too long on the
vehicle could have cracks. A sure failure. The tyre cracks fail more
on Motorhomes than tread wear. How are the rims, ragged rims through
pavement knocks, could fail.
Check the brakes. I always drag the brakes, pressing the foot brake
with one foot on the throttle, when I do my fortnightly drive during
the winter, to ensure the rust does not cause score marks and get too
deeply engrained, on the front brake discs.
Check the exhaust pipes and silencers. Any blowing or rust cracks
could fail.
Checking the previous pages, don't forget the gaiters on the drive
shafts on the front wheels.
While there check the dual brake drive pipes to the wheels.
Have a look at the fuel filler cap, a perished seal around the cap is
a fail!
Don't forget the spare wheel, ensure it has the correct air pressure.
Arriving at the testing station the Technician will check the vehicle
details and paper work. No VIN plate or what could be a changed plate
could mean no test.
Security notes; A changed plate could be stolen vehicle. Changing the
filler cap could be a good idea, as a recent report indicated that
the 'Low life' are are stealing the fuel caps, matching a key to them
and then returning to steal the vehicle!
