The
turbo charger boost gauge can be a useful device to indicate how the
Turbo charger is working on the engine. The turbo charger produces a
boost pressure for the engine which in turn increases the engine power.
With no indication of how it's operating I decided to introduce a
'Turbo Boost' gauge to monitor this function. As my vehicle is now 11
years old anything could go wrong! So it would be nice to know if the
Turbo Charger is still working. The theory principles and where to
fit the device can be found on the internet.
I
purchased a gauge from an internet supplier. The gauge came with a
meter and cables attached. One was for ignition voltage, one was for
'Lights On' voltage and the other was the 'Earth' connection, plus
the engine tube attachment and 4mm inside diameter tubing. For this
tubing came a 'T' piece to be included into pipe work.
When it arrived I realised it had to be secured somewhere so I also
purchased a'Meter Pod' which has an inside diameter of the gauge, in
my case 52mm. With it was a 'Stick on' pad.
The gauge was assembled and extra cable was attached to the meter
cables, then connected to:
1. One to the fuse box,
fuse F4 as this was +12 volt Ignition on voltage.
2. One to the fuse box,
fuse F5 as this was +12 volt Side lights on voltage.
3. The other wire to the
earth connection.
The 'Side lights on' voltage reduce the glare on the meter when
driving with side lights on.
One thing had me thinking was the connection to the engine and how
to attach the 4mm diameter tubing. Rather than drill the Engine
manifold to secure the 4mm tubing and possible swarf bits getting
into the engine, I decided to fit the attachment device into the
Manifold feed tube, which feeds the turbo boost from the turbo
charger. This device was not supplied with the meter.
On
the internet I found these devices can be purchased for £20.
Seemed a bit costly, so I made my own. This was comprised of a 8mm
nut and bolt. I drilled the centre with a 2mm drill. The 'T' piece
which came with the bits had a brass insert into one section. This
brass piece was bell shaped with a hole which had the diameter of a
single wire brush wire. Having drilled a 2mm hole which is too
large for the function, I then hammered and peened this hole in the
bolt head down until the hole was as small as the brass insert hole
in the 'T' piece. In use it has proved to be very functional and
gives no problems.
Why the brass insert into the 'T' piece - which has not been used -
and my peening the bolt hole. When the pressure is applied by the
turbo it is rhythmic and not continuous. So by reducing the aperture
into the bell shape, the air which goes into the bolt hole cannot
escape as fast as the input. This then ensures the meter does not
have an oscillating display.
The tube from the engine manifold feed pipe was taken to the grommet,
which protect the two tubes, which control the headlamps positioning.
[Top left, looking at the steering wheel from the engine side] I
drilled a hole in a blank portion of the grommet and fed the tube
through. The loudspeaker panel must be removed to enable working on
the tube and feeding through to the interior.
See; Removing
the loudspeaker - Peug2.htm
on how to removed the dash loudspeaker panel.
